Simple Pencil box, but not as easy as you think…. Tools Required: Materials: Steps: Now use the pieces to make a pencil mark on each for the depth of the dovetails I cut “tails first” when I make dovetails. So you lay them out with a dovetail marker or bevel gauge, going in ½” from […]
With all the assembly done, including the lid, it was time to finish the box. I wasn’t sure whether I would keep it for use, or give it as a gift, so I wanted to apply a finish that someone else could alter without too much trouble. I chose to use dewaxed shellac, as this
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So time to finish the lid. After screwing in the hinges into the box dados, you take the box and put it up on supports/blocks that are the same height as the box. The rough box lid is cut larger than needed. You then screw in one screw per support, then test the fit. Mark
Finally got some screws in that should work for the school box. Wanted them to look a little older than stainless screw holes. So with the hinges bent over and screwed in, I can finally start on the lid and completing this one!
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Well, the holiday and work took up a lot of time, but I’m finally back in the shop again. Time to complete the lock and work on the hinges. For the lock, the mortise was complete and tested out, and the holes for the lock expanded with chisels and files it would operate well. Now
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The saga of the lock continues. Time to cut out the mortises. You mark the width of the top of the lockset’s plate on the box. Set your cutting gauge to the width of the plate and use the gauge to connect the distance between the two pencil lines you just struck. The mortise for
Back to the School Box work, done by hand. Time to install the lock, which is kind of exciting/stressful. I have never installed a lock before, so this will definitely be a learning experience
Taking a break on the school box project to build some Christmas presents for the family (as well as a new product to sell at the Farmer’s Market). It’s a simple desk clock, with a battery operated clock that has an Arts & Crafts flair. The build consists of a main “block” of Mahogany with
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Time to build the movable partition/tray. The wall of the movable partition slides in and out of shallow dados on the inside of the front and back of the carcase. So I started out gluing up two pieces to get the required width. I made the panel large enough for both the tray and the
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The next step for the cabinet is to cut in a stopped dado in the box to hold the divider and internal shelf. Typically you would cut this before you did the joinery, but in the book, it was done afterwards. Perhaps because there was a concern in lining up the dovetailed panels correctly when
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